A trail less traveled in the Alabama Swamps

 

The Iroquois National Wildlife Refuge – a.k.a. “Alabama Swamps” -- is not lacking in things to do for the nature lover, whether it’s observing migrating birds from the lookouts, paddling Oak Orchard Creek, or hiking the Refuge’s trails.

When it comes to those hikes, Swallow Hollow – and its famous boardwalk -- is far and away the most popular trail, with the Kanyoo and Feeder trails coming in second and third.

The least popular of the trails is Onondaga. That is by no means a reflection of the quality of the experience to be had there. Instead, it comes down to the trail being off the beaten path, which makes it a real hidden gem.

The Onondaga Trail is located on Sour Springs Road, which is parallel to and just to the east of Route 63. To get there, you have to take 63 to Roberts Road to Sour Springs, heading north on Sour Springs Road. You cannot access the trailhead if you traveled south on Sour Springs after visiting the two popular overlooks at Ringneck Marsh because the Sour Springs bridge that crosses Oak Orchard Creek has been out for well over 20 years.

The parking lot at the trailhead allows for a dozen cars. I have never seen more than 3 cars in the lot (my vehicle included). If there ever is overflow (which would occur on one of the Refuge’s guided hikes), you could certainly park roadside.

The trail is 1.2 miles one-way. It’s not a loop, so you will come to the end and turn around, hiking back from where you came.

The first quarter mile of the hike is quite interesting. You walk upon a gravel dike that cuts through the Onondaga Swamp, which is approximately 60 acres in size. It is not a marsh – which is typically water with cattails and reeds. Instead, it is swamp – wood vegetation like maples occasionally pop up through the water which is dominated by small, brushy plants.

While this won’t afford you the chance to see vast areas of open water to watch flocks of geese and ducks like you would elsewhere on the refuge, it gives you the ability to see a wider variety of wildlife, such as swamp sparrows and numerous species of warblers.

It’s the herpetological creatures, though, that really get your attention. I regularly encounter green, leopard, pickerel and bull frogs. In the early spring the swamp is a deafening cacophony of spring peepers.

On any given summer hike you will see many painted turtles popping their heads out of the water or basking on logs. Then, there’s their cousin, the snapping turtle. The dike supports nearly 20 snapper nests every summer. Often you will see the leviathans that left those eggs, swimming in the water.

There’s a good chance you’ll also see northern water snakes. If you encounter one on the trail, don’t touch – water snakes are mean and will bite (they are not venomous).

After leaving the dike, the longest portion of the hike takes you through lowland forests. It has a flat, wide trail with no incline which makes for a nice, family-friendly hike (stroller friendly, too) in a quiet, secluded forest of great variety.

The first portion – nearest the swamp – is young-growth woods, with a few larger willows and yellow birches. As you head further into the woods, the trees get older, larger, and more diverse (a few healthy hemlocks, which aren’t too common in the northern parts of WNY, are here) and the soil gets richer, showing a wider variety of plant life. If you are a fan of ferns, you won’t be disappointed: During one hike last summer I counted 7 species, including the absolutely gorgeous maidenhair ferns and some impressively tall royal ferns.

Bring a pair of binoculars with you, as the forest is chock-full of songbirds such as thrashers, veeries, wood thrushes, vireos, and warblers. During the spring or summer you can tally two dozen species of birds during just one hike. Also, be as quiet as possible, as you might encounter foxes, coyotes, and fishers in this stretch.

About half-way through the hike, you will encounter a sign that directs you to the Atotarho Trail to your right. Take that short little jaunt. It’s a loop of less than a quarter mile in length that will lead you back to the Onondaga trail.

I really like this section because there is a dramatic change in plant life. The soil is much richer and you will find a plethora of wildflowers (especially in the spring). In that stretch I’ve found partridgeberries, trilliums, Canada mayflowers, mayapple, Solomon’s seal, and parnassus.

The Onondaga Trail is a wonderful place to visit, one made for all seasons. The spring and summer feature reptiles, amphibians, wildflowers, and songbirds in great numbers while the fall shows off many striking colors from the mixed hardwoods. And, as long as Sour Springs is accessible in the winter months, it’s a great place to snowshoe or do some cross country skiing.

It is a gem, and an underutilized one at that. Chance are, when you visit you will have the forest all to yourself – and your animal friends.